I've been busy.
Most of December I spent travelling with John who brought me news from home, as well as some very much needed new tyres and other spare parts. In Bombay, where we met up we first sorted our bikes out and then headed towards the sea and sun.
South Maharashtra was by far the most beautiful of the western coast. Empty beaches, small fishing villages and lack of busy tourist industry meant that we were treated like kings on what felt like our own private beach. We had a feeling there and then that this could potentially be the highlight of our joint voyage, and sadly it was so. It was good, but Goa was not what we expected. The scene that must have been around in the previous decades must have spread out to the surrounding states, and now it just felt like the holiday resorts of Costa del Sol and such like. The evenings vaguely reminded me of the types of piss-ups you get around London on Friday nights. So it felt right not to hang about too long.
Faults with John's bike, the Hero Honda Hunk 150, or "Hun" as she was christened were by no means few. I cannot now exactly recall the number of problems we had with her but just to give some idea of the fun she gave us: we had to replace the starter, fork oil seals, rear break shoe and fuel hose. Other than that, we had a puncture and the rev counter as well as the speedometer stopped working. Luckily in India there is a mechanic on every street corner where a spare part for that bike can be picked up, even on a Sunday. Aaah the beauty of India where anything is possible; I could just hear what we'd be told in England: "sorry mate, we're fully booked til after the new year..."
It was great to travel with a friend for a change. Making joint decisions and sharing experiences was something I hadn't done for a while. Riding on separate bikes meant that we'd have a few breaks during the day and then ask: "so how was your day?" in the evening. We just had no lack of topics to discuss. (Thanks for coming man!)
After John's departure I attended a meditation course just outside Mumbai. I needed some explanations after the rather intense 10 days so got speaking to the workers at the centre. They tried hard to make me accept their interpretations of Buddha's teachings and I was a respectful listener and tried to keep an open mind, but the theories which absorbed most of my thinking time even for days after failed to satisfy me. Nevertheless I have benefited with progress in some of my ideas and outlook on life.. which as a matter off course is a never ending process.
After visiting the very impressive Ajanta caves some of which date back to the 2nd century BC I rode for a couple of days in the general eastern direction. My original plan was to get to the east coast, but the distances with nothing interesting in between combined with the realisation that it's turned far too cold to be by the sea I rode for a bit too long without an aim. With tiredness and the feeling of being really far from anywhere as well as not knowing exactly where to go due to my guidebook having absolutely nothing about this part of India I could feel my spirits sinking.
But fortune favored me when I took a break with a biker who was going either in front or just behind me for about an hour. Andy who above all was a good conversationalist had impressive knowledge of the local geography and suggested me to go North. Problem solved. We rode together that afternoon, taking regular cay breaks and I was already sensing an improvement in my mood.
Other than being fairly quiet and not entirely covered with litter, there was actually not that much in Kawardha. But as it was one of the friendliest places I've been in on my travels it was enough for me to want to stay and rest for 2 days, do my laundry and sleep in a clean bed... Everybody was insisting on showing me around and on me having lunch or dinner with them. As such it was very easy to become acquainted with local conditions. Having taken Andy's advice I then headed via the Bhoramdev temple towards the Kanha National Park, where I met Sunny.
After drinking some Rum by the bonfire and chatting into the night with him I was put in touch with his friend Margie the following day. Margie is setting up an NGO, called the Kanha Conservation Trust which is working with the community and the Baiga and Gond tribes on village and ecosystem improvements. It's just what I was looking for and so I have now been volunteering with the Trust for a week, taking part in a reforestation project. I plan to stay a while.
The benefits of smiling and talking to people are incalculable. But it also goes to show that there are more good people than the bad in this world, and I would therefore like to thank all the amazing people who I have met along the way and helped me out of low points. (you know who you are)
So just to let you know, I'll be busy again for the next month.
Most of December I spent travelling with John who brought me news from home, as well as some very much needed new tyres and other spare parts. In Bombay, where we met up we first sorted our bikes out and then headed towards the sea and sun.
South Maharashtra was by far the most beautiful of the western coast. Empty beaches, small fishing villages and lack of busy tourist industry meant that we were treated like kings on what felt like our own private beach. We had a feeling there and then that this could potentially be the highlight of our joint voyage, and sadly it was so. It was good, but Goa was not what we expected. The scene that must have been around in the previous decades must have spread out to the surrounding states, and now it just felt like the holiday resorts of Costa del Sol and such like. The evenings vaguely reminded me of the types of piss-ups you get around London on Friday nights. So it felt right not to hang about too long.
Faults with John's bike, the Hero Honda Hunk 150, or "Hun" as she was christened were by no means few. I cannot now exactly recall the number of problems we had with her but just to give some idea of the fun she gave us: we had to replace the starter, fork oil seals, rear break shoe and fuel hose. Other than that, we had a puncture and the rev counter as well as the speedometer stopped working. Luckily in India there is a mechanic on every street corner where a spare part for that bike can be picked up, even on a Sunday. Aaah the beauty of India where anything is possible; I could just hear what we'd be told in England: "sorry mate, we're fully booked til after the new year..."
It was great to travel with a friend for a change. Making joint decisions and sharing experiences was something I hadn't done for a while. Riding on separate bikes meant that we'd have a few breaks during the day and then ask: "so how was your day?" in the evening. We just had no lack of topics to discuss. (Thanks for coming man!)
After John's departure I attended a meditation course just outside Mumbai. I needed some explanations after the rather intense 10 days so got speaking to the workers at the centre. They tried hard to make me accept their interpretations of Buddha's teachings and I was a respectful listener and tried to keep an open mind, but the theories which absorbed most of my thinking time even for days after failed to satisfy me. Nevertheless I have benefited with progress in some of my ideas and outlook on life.. which as a matter off course is a never ending process.
After visiting the very impressive Ajanta caves some of which date back to the 2nd century BC I rode for a couple of days in the general eastern direction. My original plan was to get to the east coast, but the distances with nothing interesting in between combined with the realisation that it's turned far too cold to be by the sea I rode for a bit too long without an aim. With tiredness and the feeling of being really far from anywhere as well as not knowing exactly where to go due to my guidebook having absolutely nothing about this part of India I could feel my spirits sinking.
But fortune favored me when I took a break with a biker who was going either in front or just behind me for about an hour. Andy who above all was a good conversationalist had impressive knowledge of the local geography and suggested me to go North. Problem solved. We rode together that afternoon, taking regular cay breaks and I was already sensing an improvement in my mood.
Other than being fairly quiet and not entirely covered with litter, there was actually not that much in Kawardha. But as it was one of the friendliest places I've been in on my travels it was enough for me to want to stay and rest for 2 days, do my laundry and sleep in a clean bed... Everybody was insisting on showing me around and on me having lunch or dinner with them. As such it was very easy to become acquainted with local conditions. Having taken Andy's advice I then headed via the Bhoramdev temple towards the Kanha National Park, where I met Sunny.
After drinking some Rum by the bonfire and chatting into the night with him I was put in touch with his friend Margie the following day. Margie is setting up an NGO, called the Kanha Conservation Trust which is working with the community and the Baiga and Gond tribes on village and ecosystem improvements. It's just what I was looking for and so I have now been volunteering with the Trust for a week, taking part in a reforestation project. I plan to stay a while.
The benefits of smiling and talking to people are incalculable. But it also goes to show that there are more good people than the bad in this world, and I would therefore like to thank all the amazing people who I have met along the way and helped me out of low points. (you know who you are)
So just to let you know, I'll be busy again for the next month.
