Saturday 26 November 2011

..riding on..

First and foremost I would like to clarify why I had not uploaded any pictures from Iran and the UAE. I have no idea how it happened but as I was saving them from the memory card onto the ipod I lost them all....d'oh.. These also included the Van region of eastern Turkey (one of my highlights, unfortunately). But they are safe with me in my memory at least.
Oh and by the way, the orange bandanna (viz. previous post) was compulsory!

In the end I stayed in and around Jaisalmer for approximately 3 weeks.  I almost began to feel at home there. The town has a special force and seems to attract people who now regularly return or have found livelihoods there. I began to feel this magneticism myself as I formed friendships with these guys. I knew it was time to go but somehow could not bring myself to leave. The rest from the constant moving done me good though. Seeing the same faces every morning and evening was  ...well...nice..  I could easily have spent a few more weeks there in their company, but the place just had no more to offer me and I started getting lazy.

It felt good to be riding on again. As soon as I sat on the bike and saw the last familiar spots I began to feel that sense of excitement about the new adventures ahead like I did on that May morning when I was saying farewell to London. This feeling is still with me now.



I rode through and stayed in a number of cities where I have seen many interesting things but I simply cannot be bothered to write about them right now, so I'll skip through Jodhpur, Jaipur and Udaipur. -Although each of these cities had something special,  I'll let the photos speak for themselves.









The Hindu pilgrimage town Pushkar is however perhaps worth a bit more of a description. (you may have notciced that it is the peaceful places that make the greater impression on me). I only spent one evening, night and morning there due to a meet-up in Jaipur the following day, but even in that short time there was something eminently mystical about this compact, busy, yet placid town. With many others I sat by the lake for some time, just watching the religious rituals around and the hills and temples on the other side of the lake reflecting in the water.




Bundi, the town where Rudyard Kipling once lived and wrote The Jungle Book was another one of those quiet places I would happily return to. Located in southern Rajasthan it is far greener than the rest of this amazing state I now feel I got to know a little. The town itself with it's narrow, fairly quiet lanes and blue buildings is rather captivating. and the picturesque, half ruined palace just above the guesthouse took most of the day to explore at leisure.  Not more than 35km outside town there is a waterfall, the visit to which will for me remain a memory for ever. With no one except for a few macaques and parakeets around, the place is very idyllic.



The further south east I rode, the greener the countryside got. By Madhya Pradesh the land was anything but dry. Instead, densely vegetated or flooded areas dominated the landscape with plenty of waders, water buffalo and smiling faces to be seen along the way. With this new interest for my eyes and the roads, for once, in pristine condition I reached Orchha before I took notice of my tiredness. This tranquil and hassle-free village has plenty of fantastic architecture. The main attraction are the two 17th century palaces, and  the temples which date back to the 16th century. From all of these there are breathtaking views of the surrounding countryside. Lying by the fairly fast flowing Betwa river, Orchha  is in the ideal location for swimming. So I made the most of that too.




Next stop was Khajuraho where I spent a day walking around the temples decorated with the famous Kama Sutra sculptures.





Only about 30km east of Khajuraho is the Panna National Park. As soon as I arrived into its vicinity I knew I would stay the night. Not feeling in the mood to ride further, look for a hotel and the usual negotiating that comes with it I found a remote spot not far from the Ken river to pitch my tent. My presence was quickly noticed by the local children who ever since it became apparent that I am going to stay the night kept checking up on me every hour or so. I did not mind them off course, but I must say I was not really in the mood for them first thing next morning... As I got up and disappeared into the bushes they had a little giggle about this strange man needing to take a shit...but as I returned they were waiting for me with their grandfather and a most welcome cup of cay and biscuits. And thus I lived for the past 5 days. Moving more or less daily by only about a km or two, washing myself  and my clothes in the river, fishing and generally falling in love with the place and lifestyle.



Speaking to the wardens of the Panna Tiger Reserve, there are apparently 11 tigers left. But various sources on the internet have contradicting data. It seems to me there may even be less than that. poaching and poor management are the main cause. I off course offered my help, but was laughed off...oh well.. They also said there are crocodiles in the river. I spent one of the days trying to find some and headed downstream where I was told they might be. Alas I found none.

Back in civilisation now. Slowly heading toward Bombay and the warmer climes.