The end

From Vladivostok I got to Khabarovsk in two days. But it was not easy as the weather was getting worse the further inland I went. It was during these two days of getting totally wet and cold, sliding on snow and not being able to see the road properly as my visor was fogging up, that I decided not to ride any further. I set myself the target to get to Khabarovsk only and from there arrange alternative transport across the coldest parts of Russia. Just as well. The winter this year was particularly long and harsh with April temperatures still reported at -20 degrees centigrade in parts of Siberia.

Luckily straight upon arrival to Khabarovsk city centre, whilst looking for a hotel I met Pasha, a member of the Russian Pistons Motorcycle Club who understood exactly what I needed at that moment in time- somewhere safe to park up, have a hot shower...warm up, eat and rest. He arranged for all these except the latter. Man, we drank a lot of vodka...and slept little that night...

All the guys in the club were so supportive and helpful that I did not have to do anything except decide what to do with the bike transport, which they would arrange. In a few days the bike was on a truck and I on the 4 day train journey to Krasnoyarsk where people from the Barghest Motorcycle club were waiting for me. Again here I was looked after until we picked my bike up from the freight depot and I was ready to ride again. My trip followed this trend across the whole of Russia. Everywhere I went some motorcycle club would have already been informed by the one I stayed at previously that I am on my way. Hence I just rode from one city to another where at the end of the day I was greeted by bikers who provided me with a bed, food, a tour of their city , and more vodka... As such I have only good things to say about Russia and its people. They love visitors and even the traffic police are easy-going if you have a laugh with hem. I will definitely come back to see the places I've missed due to the cold weather and meet up with the guys who helped me so much.

In Ukraine I gave the bike a good service, had a look around the rather pretty Kiev, and was off again. First to Krakow, then Auschwitz, Czech, Germany, France and Spain....seeing family and friends along the way.








Well, this is it. I am very grateful to everyone who's helped me, but in another sense I am most thankful to the motorbike that's never let me down. I've travelled some 60,000km and apart from the usual wear and tear, 4 punctures, 2 headlamp bulbs and a clutch cable, nothing has broken.

My trip is over. It took exactly 2 years to the day. Without a doubt the best thing I have done in my life so far. I am a little sad that this time of complete freedom is over, but on the other hand I am looking forward to having a normal life for a while and making use of the fresh outlook I gained on my journey.

Vladivostok

Just hanging around now as Russian customs could only deal with paperwork today....
Once I get the bike (hopefully tomorrow) I'll change tyres and head West for the first time.

Korea

From Sydney I had an option to take the bike directly to Vladivostok for $5000 or to Seoul -$724. From Seoul I was to then organise my own way to Russia. It seemed a little complicated to drive in Korea. First there are permits and insurance to obtain on top of the usual customs duties. Second, it is illegal to ride motorcycles on highways - and other than the highway it's a little problematic to get out of Incheon island (and hence Incheon Airport). It is possible to resolve in time but as I was only going to stay a week it was not worth the hassle. So the bike was transported 'in bond' to Donghae ($430, including handling charges and customs clearance) and then from Donghae by a ship to Vladivostok (another $600 for me and the bike). It's an expensive hobby this motorcycling around the world, but hopefully this was the last shipment of my trip.
Thanks to Se Jong and efficiency of the Korean companies dealing with my bike, all went really smoothly.

It's been over 12 years since I last saw Se Jong, so there was lots of catching up to do - the Korean way with lots and lots of food...His wife Soyeon's cooking and hospitality was simply outstanding! If this wasn't Gangnam style then I don't know what is...

During the week I also stayed with Master Chang at the Sangrok Taekwondo Academy where I once trained for a while some 13 years ago. This time we drank more makkoli than exercised though...

Having been invited by Se Jong's brother I got to stay with him in some really beautifully set temples. In San who is a buddhist monk and a martial arts expert gave me a close insight into a monk's way of life. Very interesting. The discipline is unbelievable. but it wouldn't be for me, unless I could check in and out of this occupation whenever I pleased.

Korea has changed since I have been there last. It's a lot more built up, there are now many foreigners (other than the US military), fashion sense has turned western and it seems to me that the country is going through a phase of embracing post-modernism and rejecting the 'traditionally Korean'. When I asked how come they don't drink tea much, the answer was : " yes we do, just walk around Seoul for a while and you'll see lot's of Starbucks.."

Will I come back? - Without a doubt! I have friends here. And there are just too many good things about this country to not want to.