Saturday, 1 October 2011

Haryana and Himachal Pradesh

Getting out of Delhi was a bit of a challenge. I left early in the morning but due to the serious lack of good maps available and my poor knowledge of the city I somehow kept going in circles. In the end I gave up on going the right way and decided to follow signs to any place outside Delhi that I had on my map. This proved to be a working method and in a few hours I was well and truly out of the chaos of the city.
My first propper stop was Kurukshetra where according to Hindu teachings the universe was created. This was also where Krishna delivered his Bhagavat Gita. My room had a balcony with a view of India's largest water tank , the Bhramasarovar which according to Hindu texts was created by Lord Brahma. Kurukshetra is a place of great historical and religious importance and hence attracts many pilgrims and spiritual people who seemed to be just as interested in me as I was in them.



The following day I took the winding road to Shimla (2205m), trying to avoid cows, dogs and macaques along the way. (successfully). Shimla is nice. In many areas it has a strange European feel due to some English era buildings and the Christ Church clearly visible from most places. But wondering through the busy market and the Jakhu temple, dedicated to the monkey god Hanuman I was easily reminded of where I really am.







The road got worse but steadily more adventurous and exciting with the passing villages and views of the Himalayan foothills, at this point still thickly covered by predominantly coniferous forests.
Unfortunately at around 3000m above sea level the bike started loosing power. The spark plugs were covered in carbon. I knew that the air filter is clean as I cleaned it just before setting off to Himachal Pradesh. The problem was that since Greece I have not been able to find the correct grade oil. I had this problem in Turkey whilst riding up Mount Nemrut.
Miles away from anywhere with a considerable community I resolved to change the spark plugs which improved the situation a little and with some difficulty got up to Nako Lake (3662m) near the border with Tibet. But I knew that I would only have to go down from there on. The bike just did not want to go any higher.
The beautiful village of Nako persuaded me to stay for 3 days. First one of these I spent acclimatising to the altitude, trying out some Tibetan dishes and messing around with the bike. Seeing that the carburetor was clean too, it had to be the oil.
Feeling pretty good and overwhelmed by the beauty around me I spent the next two days on hikes. There are a few Budhist monasteries in the area, some of them quite old, where on my arrival the monks welcomed me with fresh apples that are harvested in the valleys bellow.
I was going to stay there and become a monk, but as they had no internet I realised it would be ages before I could add another fascinating post... so I changed my mind..













Now I am in Chandigarh, the capital of Punjab and Haryana. The bike is happy again, and so am I. A motorcycle mechanic here agrees that it was probably the oil...oh well- low altitude it is then...until I get the right oil at least.

Monday, 19 September 2011

Iran, United Arab Emirates and Delhi

Well, Iran was interesting, to say the least. It was so far the most challenging country for me. Unfortunately I had to rush through due to corrupt border workers on both the Turkish and Iranian side. Because of those feckers I had just enough money to stay in the country for 9 days (international bank cards do not work there).

I was lucky and very happy to meet Hossein the biker whom I stayed with in Urumie for a day and who was kind enough to show me around the area. Alas I had to push on south but could not resist and stayed in Esfahan for 2 days, which I felt was not enough. Thanks to Amir I had a fantastic time there. He took me on his great little bike around the city and fed me information about Iran's history whilst taking me to many interesting squares, Mosques, museums and teahouses.
Iran is a beautiful country, but not without its environmental problems. Vasts areas are covered by deserts, rivers are totally without water and many lakes are slowly but surely diminishing. Cities are also terribly congested and so driving is probably even more hazardous than in Delhi. The rules seem to be - if you have room- go! At any rate, I don't think I'll be complaining about London traffic again. After Esfahan I rode to Shiraz which was also very nice, but my wallet was getting rather light...

After 1 and a half days of getting the bike through what appeared to be a bureaucratic trail at customs in Bandar e Abbas I managed to get a ship to the Sharjah. During the following week I wondered around Dubai, Sharjah and Ajman and arranged flights to Delhi. I did like the Emirates, despite the unbearable heat, but 3 days would've been enough. There are some good museums, spectacular buildings and huge modern Mosques. But very little of old Arabia is left.

In Delhi, it was the same thing all over again- took one and half days of trying to get various documents stamped before I got the bike. I never thought I'd be so happy to be reunited with Rosinante, which is what I have named her now.
First impressions of India - I love it. So far the country appears to be very free. There are no silly rules and people are mostly warm and friendly. The rainy season is pretty much coming to an end and so the state of Haryana is very green and lush and the climate pleasant in comparison to the south of Iran and the Emirates.
I am going north first. before the winter kicks in up there.

Connection is very slow so I'l try add some photos next time.