Punjab and Rajasthan

After Himachal Pradesh I had a few fairly thought-free days on easy and straight roads. They eventually lost their appeal or turned difficult to ride as their quality got  poor for rather prolonged sections, but it was nice to begin with.

From Chandigarh I rode into Amritsar, home to Sikh holiest shrine, the Golden Temple. It really is as beautiful as people say. Walking around the Temple complex it was hard to believe that the existence of such a peaceful place amidst all the noise and traffic just outside the walls is even possible. There was a wonderfully friendly and welcoming feel, free food for everyone, and nowhere else was I ever spoken to so nicely by men in uniform.

Worth the mention is the Karni Mata Temple in Deshnok. This is where people worship hundreds of holy rats, descended from the Goddess Karni. She was said to live in the 14th century and to have performed many miracles. When her son drowned she asked the god of death to bring him back to life. When her wish was refused, Karni restored the life of her son and announced that her family members would die no longer but would incarnate in the form of rats. Now there are around 600 families in Deshnok who claim descent from Karni Mata Rats. It is hardly surprising that the temple was rather dirty and full of unhealthy looking, overweight rodents, as pilgrims constantly bring food for them.

I have been in Jaisalmer now for over a week. In comparison to other cities in Rajasthan this place is quiet. People are used to seeing tourists, so it is actually possible to walk down the narrow sandstone-paved streets without being hassled by absolutely everyone or having to move away from speeding motorbikes or auto rickshaws every second. The Jaisalmer Fort, is still occupied by residents which interests my tourist mind as a fantastic mixture of a museum and actual life at the same time. Looking out from the fort into the landscape that people here call the desert at sunset is a magical moment.

I have got to know a few locals here with whom I get on very well. It is an entirely different experience from the continuous moving-on. Which is pretty much what I have done since coming to India.Staying in one place and getting to know people a little better I have began to redefine the concept of religion and it's value to people's lives. It is also very evident that the caste system, although abolished and illegal is still very much present. This manifests itself in gestures, treatment and dealings with one another.

I like India, but meeting other travelers and swapping stories I realised that most miss the uninteresting parts that I have to go through. They often simply take a night bus from one tourist area to another, whilst I have to travel and sometimes sleep in real 5h1tholes with no culture and no manners where people seem to live by the motto "each for themselves". Of course this experience is  applicable to most countries I've been in, including Europe. But India is a big place. Sometimes it is necessary to travel long distances through ugly towns on broken or dusty roads before arriving somewhere interesting and pleasant. On the other hand, there are times (usually unexpected) when I am there and then in the moment with the freedom to choose to stop, stay and enjoy. and then move on again at my leisure.

Now and then I hear the strangest things being said to me which leaves me bewildered for some time. For instance, once a stranger informed me of a grey hair in my beard and offered to pull it out for me... On another occasion I was told by a group of young men that I look cool or that my hair is nice. Which is worrying because this  is coming from people who also think that Justin Beaber is cool (!) as they proudly show me his music video on their phone...

Now I am off to the desert for a few days. I'll be camping by a salt lake around 30kms from Jaisalmer. But will probably return to town again. It is nice here.